It seems to be the best kept secret in Khumbu that there is a much better scenic route opposite side of Tengpoche offering just amazing views across the valley. All trekkers doing only EBC (no Gokyo, that is) should go up this way, and visit Tengpoche on the way down. Thus the itinerary on the way up should be Lukla – Monjo – Namche (2) – Mong La (lunch) – Phortse – Pangpoche (lunch) – Dingpoche (2) – Lobuche – etc.

Even better is one where the first night in DIngpoche is replaced by a visit and overnight at Ama Dablam Base Camp, or actually Mingbo Lodge few hundred meters south from there. As the lodge is at the same altitude as DIngpoche (4300m). Thus the ultimate itnerary is Lukla – Monjo – Namche (2) – Mong La (lunch) – Phortse – Pangpoche (lunch) – ADBC – Pangpoche/Shomare (lunch) – Dingpoche – Lobuche – Kala Pattar, and back via Tengpoche.

@Mac – Thanks for your message. I saw lots of smokers doing it so while i”m sure it’s not recommended, it’s still doable. Most of the sections aren’t super steep, more slow and steady, it just really depends on how your body reacts to the altitude and there’s no way of knowing until you’re there. I grew up at 1000 m (3000 ft) and got altitude sickness much earlier than some of the Australians in my group who live at sea level. I was really surprised.

@Shankar – Glad that you enjoyed it.

@Linda – 1) No one in our group started Diamox before, and you may not need it. I’m not a doctor, so you should check to be sure, but I think you’re fine to wait and see if you need it.

2) There’s usually 1 or 2 shared toilets, there won’t be any hairdryers. There may or may not be a shower. Our guide recommended against showering since the cold at higher attitudes can make you sick. I’d plan that you won’t be washing your hair and bring dry shampoo instead. Enjoy!

@Hali – That also sounds like an incredible way to do it, thanks for sharing!